HOW-TO:

To make it easy on yourself:
1. Remove battery and battery tray
a. 13mm socket for the tray fasteners and 1/2" open end for the battery terminals (use 2, one on each end to prevent round of the soft battery terminals)

Once you have the battery tray out, You will want to loosen the 8mm fasterners holding the EGR tube to the intake manifold. You will reuse the gasket and the fasteners.

Getting to the EGR valve takes a little patience, but with right size extensions and 10mm socket, its not impossible. Might have to reach thru the heater hoses for ease of access.

Remove the EGR valve and the thin stainless gasket. You will not need to reuse any of those.

Apply a thin coat of RTV silicon (or equivalent gasket maker) to the EGR Elim. plates and apply them to the head. Be sure to clean both surfaces of oil and dirt. Use the supplied stainless washers and blue bolts on the EGR Elim. head plate and fasten accordingly.

Install the intake manifold block plate and fasten accordingly.

Another options is:

Sandwich the egr plate between the head and egr valve, same on intake manifold egr tube. You can also completely eliminate the egr system. Your choice, my kit provides fasteners and washers to do just that.

Optional resistor provided is meant to be soldered in between the 2 wires leading to the egr transducer. Highly recommended for stock pcm users as it reduces occurence of check engine light. For Mopar PCM Users, leaving the transducer in place eliminates egr check engine light as reported back by some users. AF/X  PCM users need not worry about the transducer or resistor, remove both.

The rubber cap is used to block the vaccum source for egr valve (either near tb or brake booster).